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Civil War in the Southwest:
Clothing Guidelines

Confederate: Army of New Mexico

Historical Re-EnactorsNo “Grey or Butternut” enlisted men’s uniforms. Only officers wore Confederate uniforms. Confederates often wore Union clothing that they picked up in Texas or New Mexico. Soldiers often wore captured Federal uniforms.

     
Left: A fine example of a Confederate "field" uniform includes a weathered hat, a pipe, a civilian shirt and trousers, with tall riding boats. Notice the pipe; tobacco use was prevalant. Pipes were the cheapest way to enjoy tobacco.
Right: Another fine example of a Confederate soldier, includes a civilian hat, a civilian jacket and trousers, with a mixture of Federal and Texas accoutrements, including a belt buckle and bayonet. Only officers wore the gray Confederate uniform.

Hats
Broad brimmed felt or straw
Union forage caps
Wheel caps
Hardee hats
Period civilian hats

Confederate SoldierConfederate SoliderCoats & Jackets
Captured Federal sack coats or shell jackets  (very common)
Mexican War surplus clothing
Civilian sack or frock coats (very common)

Shirts
Civilian Shirts – made from cotton, wool, muslin, or appropriate period material. 
“Battle” overshirt 
Federal issue shirts

Trousers
Civilian Pattern – made from appropriate materials – wool, corduroy, cotton duck, jeans cloth (wool-cotton blend)
Federal issue trousers (very common)
Mexican style vaquero trousers

Footwear
Military brogans or boots
Civilian shoes or boots 

Accoutrements 
Captured Federal equipment: cartridge boxes, canteens, haversacks, belts, cap pouches, and bayonets.
Belt knife
Mexican War surplus equipment
Civilian / homemade equipment

 Confederate Soldier  Federal Woman
Left: Confederate infantryman wearing a period hat, a captured Federal overcoat and trousers, with brogans (shoes) and a Federal cartridge box and belt. This is an outstanding example of a Southwestern Confederate soldier.
Right: This is handmade apron based on the Confederate first national flag. Women portray a range of roles at this event, ranging from "housewives" and laundresses to theatrical performers.

 

Federal: California, Colorado & New Mexico Volunteers

Most of the troops wore the standard Federal issue uniforms. Federal troops had a much less difficult time acquiring uniforms and equipment due to existing inventory and supplies. There were no Federal artillery uniforms used at any of the three engagements re-created at this event.

    
Left: A good example of a Federal officer includes an officers hat with appropriate cords and insignia (in this case a french horn for infantry), a checkered shirt beneath a frock coat with a leather belt, and good quality reproduction gauntlets with an officer sash. It's appropriate that uniforms look used, but not used up.
Center: A great example of a Federal uniform includes an unadorned Hardee hat, period glasses, an authentic sack coat and trousers, a long gun (model 1855 Springfield), and a haversack with a canteen and a tin cup. The complete uniform has a weathered look.

Hats
Hardee hats
Union forage caps
Broad brimmed felt or straw hats

Federal SoldierFederal SoldierCoats & Jackets
Appropriate Federal frock coat, sack coat or shell jacket

Shirts
Federal issue shirts
Civilian Shirts- made from cotton, wool, muslin, or appropriate period material.

Trousers
Federal issue trousers

Footwear
Military brogans or boots
Civilian shoes or boots (officers)

Accoutrements
Federal issue equipment: cartridge boxes, canteens, haversacks, belts, cap pouches, and bayonets.
Belt knife

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